• Journal de bord

    Septiembre 2011: Nicaragua : un pais de volcanes y de revolutionarios

    Estoy leyendo otra ves el libro del Che que se llama « Soberania policica e independencia economica » en El papel de la universtidad en el desarrollo economico de Cuba (Ernesto Guevara. Escritos y discursos, La Habana, t. 4,81-82), yo fue conmovido comprender como estas palabras fueron adecuadas para un pais como Nicaragua.

    «  El regimen interno que tenga cada pueblo que le permita en mayor o menore grado o por completo o que no le permita en absoluto ejercer su soberania, debe ser asunto que competa a dicho pueblo ; pero la soberania nacional significa, primero el derecho que tiene un pais que nadie se inmiscuya en su vida, el derecho que tiene un pueblo a darse el gobierno y el modo de vida que mejor le convega. Eso depende de su voluntad y solamente eses pueblo es el que puede determinar si un gobierno cambia o no. Pero todos estos conceptos de soberania politica, de soberania nacional son ficticios si al lado de ellos no esta la independencia economica ».

    Keeping short this great though, one can sum up it as: the sovereignty of a country requires that this country should be free of any kind of external and foreign interfering and furthermore above this political sovereignty that its economic sovereignty be protected and secured.

    It’s obvious that that concern was basically acute and prevailing in the whole Central America during the second half of the previous century for a few politicians struggling to maintain the national sovereignty.

    Nicaragua is certainly with Cuba one of the best instance of that bloody struggle (Cuba has still been surviving the US ashamed block).

    We can claim that Nicaragua suffered the American interventionism for almost 70 years (from the twenties to the Nineties).

    Nicaraguan unmatched wealth and above all his natural wonder is “el Lago de Nicaragua” as big as Corsica (!). Indeed, if you check your map, you’ll see that a large part of Nicaragua is covered by his huge lake and the key is that this wonder is able to give a link between the two oceans (Atlantic and Pacific). Indeed, far before the building of the Panama Canal, the only way to cross over the two big oceans was through Nicaragua (That ‘s true that only small ships could sail at that times and that one needed to enlarge the rivers around in order to ease the sailing of big tanks). For the international trade, it was such a matchless asset.

    Eventually, this lake was Nicaragua cross and roots of blood.

    It was without taking head of the US external foreign policy.

    From the very beginning, the US government tried to dominate internal Nicaragua politics in order to ease their use of the lake (History taught us that they would fail finally and then tried other attempts in Panama which also will cost lots of life in this country – it took Panama years to rediscover his rights on his own canal…).

    US Interventionism in Nicaragua really started back to the early 20thies and will give birth of one of Nicaragua politics famous character   Augusto Sandino.

    This man is still venerated in whole Nicaragua and it’s safe to say that he fought against the US Marines presence for more than 15 years. He did all he could to bring out and fight against Nicaraguan governmental corruption embodied by the Samosa family. The Samosas were presidents of Nicaragua from father to sons during almost 60 years (5 times exactly). They were just puppets controlled and spearheaded by the US governments and all the dollars that flew in the Samosas pockets to help them to turn their blind eyes.

    Samosa build an internal army which was charged of finding and murdering all the regime opponents. They killed thousands of people and they killed also Sandino in 1934.

    After the assassination of Sandino came lots of opponents to the Samosa regime and especially in the student field. Lots of them were murdered during some demonstrations.

    Those events gave birth to the FSLN (Frente Sandinista de Liberacion Nacional) which is still the major party in Nicaragua. His leader is Daniel ORTEGA which is President of Nicaragua currently. Ortega is running for the upcoming elections that are occurring next November. FSLN is a left wing party and underpins the left wing tendency in some Central and South America countries.

    Without really planning it we walked through the revolutionary path during our stay in Nicaragua.

    Firstly we settled in the lovely town of Leon which is the FSLN main town. It was really moving to see all those murals (we can see a few on our website) showing the local population fights against the Samosa tyranny. I really like the one you can see Sandino (You can recognize him generally thanks to his black hat) swatting with his right boot the ridiculous Uncle Sam (How amazing!). It reminds me of some of the savories murals of Santa Clara in Cuba …

    The temperature was sky-high in Leon (You could never picture it – so so hot). Despite of that we spend our time to visit some martyr memorials and El Museo de la Revolucion perfectly located in the main square.

    After that we rushed through the cost line to bath into the warm and sunny Pacific Ocean (very dangerous by the way because of some rip tides).

    After a few lovely days in Leon, we discovered the wonderful town of Granada. Our aim out there was to take up a new Spanish session that could last one week and so we did it. We got some rather good teachers and spent 3 hours during 5 days to improve our rather intermediate Spanish knowledge. Weather was still boiling. Scorchers after scorchers. I really didn’t check the temperature but it had to be very very warm. Granada is a wonderful and pretty town located in front of the Nicaraguan lake. It’s an old colonial town filled with churches and green squares, narrow streets full of colorful small houses with tiled roofs. A wonder. An unmatched quality of live. Round the town we can bump into volcanoes, lakes, mountains…really astonishing and so so cheap, guys, you would have cried thinking of what we are missing out there. Out there we were hosted by a charming Nicaraguan family and by accident there were just very involved in the FSLN. They were preparing the upcoming elections and it was rewarding talking about politics with them and giving them a small hand.

    Concerning the touristy way of life, we visited the “Isletas” which are incredible small islands located in front of Grenada in the lake. Some of them hosts some wonderful houses for a some very loaded family. Heaven on earth ! Really peaceful and lovely.

    We have to say that we can assure you that there are lots of thing to do in Nicaragua. That’s a lovely and peaceful country and so many different things to do : beach, hikes, culture. Local people are very friendly, helpful. Local food is great. Their beer “Toña” is delicious and far better that Mass wine and guys, they have such a Rum, “La flor de caña”, a wonder…a very very good Rum, perhaps one of the best in the world, seriously speaking. It’s reported that it could be done with some Canes coming out from Cuba when some Campesinos decided to escape out of the Isla Bonita because they were afraid of the socialism building out there. But any way this Rum is a wonder and so cheap. It’s really a pleasure to go out there thanks to some affordable drinks. Great !!!!

    After something like 10 days out here in Grenada, we shipped through the wonderful lake to hit the enchanting Isla of Ometepe. The journey was amazing and I’m very pleased that I don’t have lots of readers because it’s a wonderful place to go which is unbelievably not spoiled by some beheaded tourists. The place is simply unique on its own. Local people are so smiling, friendly, welcoming. We found there our best comedor since we left ! (Yes the best address). The views on the two volcanoes are simply breathtaking. In a few words, really nice.

    We hanged around out there, treating ourselves with a horse ride. Not that bad guys, not that bad at all. See the pictures.

    Then we had to dash through the lake again and hit San Juan del Sur, a reported paradise for surfers located in the Pacific Ocean. Really don’t worth going there hitting some pathetic Gringos parties. We left as quick as we could heading to the Costa Rica Border in order to live some other terrific adventures.

    If ever you decide to fly to Central America, go to Nicaragua. You shouldn’t be disappointed. Promise. I could give you such a journey that you wouldn’t ever forget.

    Que mas ?

     Eso no lo sé asi que tengo que irme, amigos, y espero que la vida es bella para vosotros y sus familias y que vamos a tener algunas buenas noticias de vosotros rapidamente.

    Vamos a Costa Rica pronto para verificar que sea verdad que alli la gente vive la « Pura vida »…hum que interesante, verdad ?

    Hasta siempre y que les vaya bien, amores mio.


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